Black Dragon Pool Park

The streams that trickle through Dayan emanate from Black Dragon Pool, less than a kilometre north. Because the water here is a lucid green colour it is also known as Jade Spring and has been a public park since the Ming Dynasty. The Deyue Pavilion which stands in the middle of the pond, connected by the marble, five-arched Bridge, was originally erected in the 17th century, restored and rebuilt in 1963. When the sky is clear the snow-clad Jade Dragon Mountain reflects its peaks in the water in front of the bridge and three-tiered pavilion, for the classic postcard image of Lijiang. The smaller pavilion between five-arched Bridge and the south bank of the pond serves as a complement. And tall weeping willows on either bank frame the whole picture.

On the east bank of the pond sits the 18th century Longshenci. Within its compound various kinds of flowers are raised. Paths from here lead one way to the Deyue Pavilion and the other way behind it to Five Phoenix Pavilion. This was originally the main building of Fuguo Temple, sited above Jade Pond, one of the five Karmapa monasteries sponsored by the Mu rulers. This one was constructed in 1661, but in recent decades was removed to the park and the Sanduo statue installed.

The 29-metre tall building gets its name from the fact that its three tiers, with octagonal flying cornices, sport 24 angles. Accordingly, from any viewpoint the structure resembles five phoenixes taking flight. Further on, beyond the park boundaries, is the new Dongba Museum, displaying ritual set-ups for various ceremonies, costumes and religious paraphernalia, like the images and painted swords formerly used in funerals.

Back at the south end of the park a path leads uphill to the Dongba Institute, where the collected manuscripts are stored. Further up another building houses an art gallery. Even on cloudy days, then, the park still has its attractions.

However, when the mountain is cloud-free, the option exists for an even fuller view by continuing up the path as it climbs Elephant Hill. At the summit is a pavilion from which to gaze at Jade Dragon and the dry plain that spreads between Elephant Hill and the base of the mountain.