The Markets

The business district in the old town of Dali is busy every day. So is the old market in Xiaguan on the lane leading to the lower bridge over the Yangbi River. But the rural folks, both in the plains and in the mountains, rely on the periodic markets, which turn sleepy townships into beehives of commerce, in a throwback to the lifestyle of the ancestors. Beyond that aspect, which is not a conscious motive anyway, the rural folks like markets because that's the place these diligent farmers can sell their surplus, make money and improve their lives.

The best-known market days are those hosted at Shaping on Mondays and Wase every five days. The former draws not only Bai from all the villages on the northern end of the lake, but also busloads of tourists as well, both Chinese and foreign. Bai merchants, mostly women, compete as much for the tourists' attention as their own people's. Lots of handicrafts, antiques and costume parts, old and new, go on sale along with farm produce.

Wase holds its market day on calendar dates ending in 0 or 5. Travellers in Dali arrange for boat rides across Erhai, combining it with a stopover in Xiaoputao. The market draws Bai villagers from the eastern shore and mainly farm and lake produce goes on sale. Both merchants and customers pretty much ignore the strangers, unlike Shaping. They can get quite argumentative at times over prices or squabble over who has the right to sell goods at such and such a spot. Other villages on the northeast shore also stage market days, though they are less attended.

A very different market day takes place in Pingpo, 22 km west of Xiaguan, every Sunday. The township lies on a plateau above the highway and on Sundays stalls line the entire long main road, out to the promontory at the end of the buildings. Here the Yi park their ponies. Most of the stands are run by Han, but many Yi come down from the mountains. Their women are recognisable by the heavily embroidered aprons they wear, which are fastened above the breasts by a silver chain.