Erhai Lake

The literal translation of Erhai is Ear Sea, wherein er means ear and hai means, actually, any very large body of water. The lake surface is 1972 metres high, roughly the same altitude as Kunming. Erhai's waters are fed by the Miju and Luoshi Rivers in the north, four streams in the southeast and the 18 streams that tumble down from Cangshan to the west. At Xiaguan the waters flow through the Natural Bridge (Tianshengqiao) into a tributary of the Yangbi River, which eventually runs into the Lancangjiang.

The publicists make much of the "limpid blue waters," yet the lake's colour depends on the colour of the sky. On cloudy days it is state grey. On sunny days it is deep blue, like the sky. When the sunrise is particularly splendid it is piebald with several shades of red, blue, purple and green. As the sun starts sinking behind the Azure Mountains Erhai reflects the russet colour of the hills to the east. And when all the plain is in shadow the lake is still lit by the rich rays of sunset. Yet because it is so long the weather at one end might be completely different from the other end.

In the space between the west bank of the lake and the Cangshan range stretches a broad, well-watered, fertile plain. It is narrow in the south, wide in the middle and narrow again at the northern end. South of Dali most settlements are Han. North of Dali, and on the eastern shore of the lake, they are largely Bai. The best view of the plain, and of course the lake and the eastern hills beyond, can be had from temples sited high upon the Cangshan slopes.

Gantongsi, the most southerly, lies high above Qiliqiao, itself home to the Guan Yin Temple, the most popular in the vicinity. The actual shrine to the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy sits stop a boulder in the front courtyard. In the rear courtyard lies a temple honouring the Buddha, with several outstanding lamps in front of the entrance. On the 19th day of the 3rd, 6th and 9th months both Bai and Han throng the temple, for these are Guan Yin's special days.

The road behind the temple, accessible by foot, pony cart or taxi, climbs uphill to Gantong Temple. Originally a 36-hall extravaganza of the Nanzhao era, only one hall survives. Yet the setting bears evidence to its spiritual heritage. Up in the forest, away from all sound save birds, insects and the rustle of leaves in the wind, it must have nourished many meditating souls over the centuries. Paths lead both north and south, winding along the mountains.

For more exciting walks one can turn south from Zhonghe Temple. This lies just above Dali and can be reached by cable car. The path stays on the level and after a half-hour walk turns into a steep canyon with boulders jutting up from the chasm like monstrous fingers pointing skyward. After a bend in the path one can see these with the plain and lake as a backdrop. Affording similar long-range views, also set in the woods, is Wuwei Temple, a few kilometres northwest of Dali. And in the north, above the flower garden at Shangguan, from the towers perched on the slopes, one has a view of the northern pass from where Kubilai Khan's army swarmed into the plain.

Zhonghe Temple

The eastern side of Erhai is much less populated. The hills run close to the shore, are not fertile themselves, and most villages lie at the end of river valleys. The largest is Haidong, just across the lake from Dali. To its south is Erhai's largest island Haidao, while on the promontory east of the bay beside Haidong perches the Luoquan Temple. Settlements are sparse north of this temple until Wase, over two-thirds the way up the eastern shore. Just before Wase is another island, Xiaoputao, a small plot of land with a central hill and the most picturesque temple in the area on top of it..

Wase is a fairly large village that depends as much on fishing as on farming. Its farms lie in a flat narrow valley behind the village, past the large Guan Yin temple. But dozens of tall-masted boats will be sitting in the harbor when not out on the lake. Further north, actually in Eryuan County, the village of Shuanglang is even more involved in fishing, for its is backed by hills and its narrow strip of flat land is mostly taken up by housing. A small peninsula juts out into the lake and from the hill behind Shuanglang it is obvious this is the most splendidly laid out village in the entire lake area. A small island offshore to its south has been converted into a Nanzhao theme park, so it remains to be seen whether Shuanglang's almost pristine calm can survive the coming commotion of this new artificial attraction.

Shuanglang

The northern end of Erhai is the most beautiful section. At the very top are the villages of Haichaohe and Jiangwei, which have adjacent farms but also loads of boats moored along the shores. Great nets are stretched along the shallows. Occasionally boats here, and more especially in the western shore villages further south, go out with cormorants to do their fishing. The Bai fix a tight collar around the bird's neck so that it cannot swallow the fish it catches, but must disgorge them. Wild cormorants can never be trained, so the Bai first trap the wild cormorants, then breed them in captivity. The offspring can be trained.

Rounding the lake and re-entering Dali's boundary the road passes Butterfly Spring, once a quiet pond with a big acacia tree beside it, where all kinds of butterflies visited in late spring. Now it is a major tourist attraction, with several new buildings, saleswomen galore and a special Butterfly Festival, the 15th day of the 4th moon.

Of greater interest, surely, is the Bai town of Zhoucheng, a couple kilometres south of the spring. This is a square-shaped town lying on a slope, with its market area, shaded by resplendent trees, in the lower part near the highway. The cobbled streets, stone walls and traditional domestic architecture are uninterrupted by modern intrusions.

About all the Bai women dress in traditional costume-red vest over a long-sleeved blouse, apron, trousers, shoulder bag and bonnet. The Dali style is to tie the hair in a bun and top it with a white crown on a flower-embroidered band, with a long white tassel falling on the shoulder. Zhoucheng women might use a tie-dyed head scarf instead and wear an apron of the same material, for Zhoucheng is a major producer of this art. When it's not a busy time in the fields women are likely to be at this work in their free time.

Further back towards Dali, where the plain begins to widen, 18 km north of the old city, is the mostly Bai town of Xizhou. This used to be a major stop on the trade route going north, before the highway was built, and its population included many rich families. They built themselves exquisite houses, with courtyards within courtyards, delicately carved gates, brackets, doors, screens and windows, commodious and comfortable rooms. The domicile of one such Xizhou merchant has in recent years been converted into an atmospheric guest house, retaining its original designs on the exterior and providing modern facilities in the rooms.

Another hosts the Bai song and dance show that accompanies the traditional serving of three kinds of tea. The first is bitter, but with a semi-sweet aftertaste. The second tea is sweet, flavoured with honey, ginger and walnuts. The third, called "after-flavour tea," includes prickly pear ash as an ingredient and is a touch astringent. Small snacks such as the Xizhou wheat bread, accompany the servings.

Most villages between Xizhou and Dali are Bai, but even the Han and Hui settlers employ the Bai style in designing their houses. The most common is a quadrangle with rooms on three sides and a decorated screen wall. The Bai paint the roofs and pillars and use double, bow-shaped brackets, often carved with vegetation and animal motifs, mounted on columns to support the upturned eaves. On the wall below each apex of the roof they paint arabesques as a last decorative flourish. This is the Hui influence and an original Dali innovation, which has since been incorporated by rote in all Bai and Bai-influenced architecture in Yunnan.

Bai use their homes mainly for retiring. Otherwise they pass their time in the receiving room or outside in the courtyard, the women perhaps embroidering, knitting or making fish nets. That's when they are relaxing, which at first observation doesn't seem to be very often. The Bai are some of the most industrious people in the province, and around Erhai one of the most successful. They are also good at business, not averse to long-distance itinerant trade, and Bai communities exist as far away as Shanghai.

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