The Lakes

South of Kunming, set among the rolling hills of the central plateau, lie three of Yunnan's picturesque lakes. The province's deepest and third largest, Fuxianhu, lies just a few kilometres below Chengjiang, a small county with one major attraction-the 20,000 square-metre Confucian temple in the eastern quarter. Originally built in 1571, the compound underwent extensive renovations in the Qing Dynasty and again in recent years. Now yellow glazed tiles roof the seven adjoining chambers of the 10 metre-high main hall.

Fuxian Lake

The nearest shore of Fuxian Lake has been built up as a resort centre. On the northeast side rises a large promontory called Elephant Trunk Hill, after the long rock that seems to stretch into the clean blue water for a drink. The southern loop of Fuxian Lake, just east of Jiangcheng, is perhaps more attractive and certainly more tranquil. Visitors can stay in new villas in the traditional style with white walls and orange glazed tile roofs, on the small but pretty island near the southern end. Further down, the lake empties into the shallow waters of Xingyun Lake, an arched stone bridge marking the spot.

The waters of this lake, as well as of Qilu Lake further south, are somewhat greyer than that in Fuxian. Hot springs lie in several spots in the vicinity. One set is on the east side of Fuxian. Another five are around Xingyun, with the water temperature increasing the further south the spring is situated. The biggest, a built-up local tourist destination of its own, is Elephant Trunk Spring in Huaning County, 28 km east of Tonghai.